- Why is it important for an air conditioner to dehumidify?
Air conditioners keep you comfortable by removing heat and moisture from the air. To do both effectively, the unit must be properly sized for your space. If the capacity is too low, you may never feel quite cool enough. When the capacity is too high, the unit produces so much cold air so quickly that the room reaches the desired temperature before the unit has adequate run time to dehumidify. The result is a cool but clammy room that can feel just as uncomfortable as one that is not cool enough.
- I occasionally see black particles blowing out of my unit. What are these and do I need to do anything about it?
If your unit is only a couple of years old, then what you are seeing is probably due to a maintenance issue. Air conditioners remove both heat and humidity from a room. That humidity condenses on the air conditioner coils and drains into the base pan where it is used to cool the unit. Occasionally, mold or mildew will take advantage of this high moisture environment. The only way to alleviate this situation is to have the unit professionally cleaned. Any of our authorized servicers can treat the problem, however, you may use any servicer that you prefer since this is not a warranty issue. Authorized servicers are listed in the dealer locator.
- Why is there water in the base pan of my air conditioner?
Air conditioners remove both heat and humidity from a room. This process produces condensation which runs off into the base pan. This condensation is then used to cool the hot condenser coil which improves the unit's performance.
- How do I determine the proper cooling capacity for my space?
See the sizing guide in any of our product specifications for specific information on choosing the right size unit for your space.
- Are there air conditioning options for spaces without an exterior wall?
Absolutely! One of the best options is a ductless split system, because the indoor unit can be mounted virtually anywhere. Depending on the system, the indoor and outdoor units can be separated by up to 164 feet with maximum height differences of 98 feet. So even if the rooms that need cooling are located in the building's interior or on separate floors, there may be a Friedrich ductless system that will fit the application.
- What model or product is best for my situation?
Depending on the type of installation and cooling capacity you need, you may find solutions that you never knew existed. Specific product pages explain each unit/system in detail so you can get a complete understanding of the features and benefits of every Friedrich product.
For professional expertise, consult the dealer locator to find a retailer near you. Local retailers understand the factors that can affect cooling in your area, including average seasonal temperatures, building codes, etc., and can provide a wealth of information.
You also can visit the Find Your Friedrich section, where you'll find specific information on choosing the right unit for your space.
- What's the difference between your premium and deluxe models?
All Friedrich products are manufactured to the highest standards. However, different customers and different installations need different solutions. That's why Friedrich offers so many choices. Our ultra-premium and premium lines are commercial-grade and have more features than our deluxe models. Within our premium lines, the Kühl® series stands apart as the ultra-premium product with the most features and greatest functionality.
- I'd like to cool and heat with one unit. Will a heat pump work in my location?
Heat pumps are a very energy-efficient heating option. Friedrich offers window, thru-the-wall, PTAC, ductless split systems, and single package vertical heat pump models, so you'll find just what you need for your application.
A heat pump is an air conditioner that can run in reverse to provide heat. In air conditioning mode it removes heat from the indoor air and expels it outside. In heating mode it extracts heat from the outdoor air and uses it to heat your indoor space.
At peak efficiency heat pumps use 1/3 of the electricity used by an electric heat unit. However, heat pumps heat most comfortably and efficiently when the temperature is above 45º F. They are not well suited to colder climates with extreme winter temperatures but can be an energy efficient solution in shoulder seasons. Some heat pumps offer supplemental electric heat, which will provide heat in colder temperatures.
- I'm renovating and don't want to run ductwork. What cooling options do I have?
That depends on how many rooms need to be conditioned. For a single-room addition with exterior walls and windows, a window or thru-the-wall installation is a good choice. For multi-room additions, or if you don't have windows or exterior walls, consider a ductless split system. Like a central air conditioner, ductless split systems are two-piece systems with one part outdoors and one (or multiple) indoor units that distribute the conditioned air. Indoor units typically mount high on a wall or, occasionally, in the ceiling or on the floor. Multi-zone ductless systems can condition up to four spaces with one outdoor condensing unit.
- What is the decibel rating of my air conditioner?
There is no industry standard for measuring the sound of room air conditioners or an independent agency to verify the ratings. We follow the guidelines set by AHAM (Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers), but these guidelines do not list decibel ratings for home appliances. Without an accepted industry standard, each manufacturer can "test" for sound ratings using whatever methodology they prefer. And without a common testing method, none of the results provide accurate comparisons. That's why we do not publish sound ratings.
- Does my new air conditioner qualify for a Federal Tax Rebate?
Many ductless split systems are ENERGY STAR® qualified and eligible for the Federal Tax Rebate for ENERGY STAR® products. ENERGY STAR® qualified window and thru-the-wall room air conditioners are not eligible for the Federal Tax rebate but may qualify for a rebate from your local utility company. Check with ENERGY STAR® to see what rebates apply to your area.
- What causes ice to build up in an air conditioner?
Icing can be caused by a number of factors. Units that have not been cleaned over a long period of time may have coils and fins clogged by dust, dirt or debris. Clogged coils and fins restrict air flow through the unit, which can cause the compressor to work even harder – so hard, that it may reduce the coil temperature below the normal range in an attempt to make up for the lost cooling power from the blocked coils.
Another potential cause is running a unit with a very cold set point (i.e. turning the target temperature down very low) on low fan speed for an extended period of time. This can cause excess condensate to build up on the coils, further lowering the temperature of the coil and leading to icing.
It may be helpful to ask an authorized warranty servicer to check the unit for you.
- The power cord on my new air conditioner looks different. Why?
Effective August 1, 2004, the National Electric Code (NEC – Article 440.65) and UL 484 Standard required room air conditioning manufacturers to use either an LCDI or an AFCI power cord. The new power cords are equipped with a device that senses current leaks either between or from the conductors and interrupts the circuit by removing the supply source from the cord. This is done either electronically or via "air break" contacts. The cord remains de-energized until the condition causing the excessive leakage current has cleared, or the device has been manually reset. That's a lot of engineering-speak for "the cord is safer".
- Water is draining into my room from my air conditioner. What do I do?
This problem generally has one of two causes: the unit was not installed properly with the outside lower than the inside to allow for adequate exterior drainage, or there may be a clog in the drain pan where condensate collects during operation.
If you feel that neither of these conditions exists, check for air leaking in from the outside anywhere around the unit. Air leaks will cause condensation to form on the outside of the unit, and this water will drain into your room. If there are any air leaks, resealing them should address the problem.
- My unit produces cold air but it keeps turning off and on every few minutes, and I'm never comfortable. What is happening?
Your unit is probably too large for your room and is "short cycling." This happens when cold air from an oversized unit bounces off the wall and back towards the unit, creating a room-temperature reading that's cooler than the actual temperature. This false reading causes the compressor to shut off before the room has truly reached your desired set-point. While the compressor is off, the "real" room air enters the intake grille, and the thermostat reads that the room is no longer at the set temperature, so it turns the compressor back on. Your unit cycles off and on approximately every two to three minutes to reach the set-point. While the air coming out of the unit is cold, the compressor does not remain on long enough to cool the entire room.
The only solution is to correctly size the unit's capacity to the room size and demand. A unit's capacity is determined by its Btu. Larger rooms need a higher-capacity unit (a greater Btu) to cool correctly. But a unit that is too large for the room will reach its set point too quickly and the compressor will turn off before the air conditioner has had adequate time to remove humidity from the air.
- How do I choose the correct unit capacity/ Btu size?
You should consider a number of variables when sizing a unit, such as location, room insulation, how many people will be using the room, size and location of windows, to name a few. Our Sizing Guide will give you an approximate size, or you can link to the AHAM web site, http://www.cooloff.org for a much more complete sizing guide. You also could have an HVAC professional conduct a heat-loss study at your location to determine exactly what type and size unit is best for your application.
- It's cold outside but hot inside and I need to use my air conditioner. What now?
Your air conditioner is designed to cool in warm weather when the outside temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit and below 115 degrees Fahrenheit, so it won't cool a room if it's cool outside. If you want to cool a room in the winter, set your unit to Fan Only mode (if it has one) and set the Fresh Air/Exhaust control to Fresh Air. This will bring in a supply of outside air. You can do this as long as the outside air temperature is above freezing.
- I only use my air conditioner a few months per year. Why is my warranty based on when I purchased it?
While seasonal use may result in less wear and tear on an appliance, there are two valid reasons for time-based warranties. First, manufacturers cannot realistically base warranties on use because we can't accurately monitor when and how you use your unit. Second, some appliances actually age more quickly from extended periods of non-use than from continuous daily operation. For example, refrigerator and room air conditioner sealed systems can stay vacuum-tight for many years if the internal refrigerant gas and lubricant keep moving and softening the various seals. These seals may dry out if the mechanisms involved remain stationary.
- Can I use a cover over the outside of my air conditioner during the months when it is not in use?
Please do not cover the outside of your air conditioner unless you first remove the unit from the sleeve, clean it and dry the base pan. Friedrich air conditioners are designed to hold water in the base pan. If the air conditioner is covered, the water cannot evaporate, and mold and mildew will form. If the air conditioner is installed per the instructions, you should not have problems with air coming in or around the unit. Everything in the rear of the air conditioner is sealed so snow and rain cannot harm the air conditioner. Friedrich Air Conditioning does not make covers for air conditioners.
- I can't find my window or through-the-wall unit's serial number.
The serial number is four letters followed by five numbers (no spacing). You'll find the serial number of your unit in two places: on the unit and on the shipping carton. If you don't have the shipping carton, use this guide to find your model's number:
- Kühl® and Kühl+®: The serial number is on a printed label directly behind the hinged filter access door just beneath the filter.
- CP®: The serial number is on a sticker on the front of the base pan on the inside of the unit. The base pan is the shallow pan underneath your air conditioner where the condensate (water) collects. To see the sticker, remove the unit's front cover. The sticker will have a barcode and model and serial numbers. Enter only the first 9 alphanumeric characters, ignoring hyphens or letters following a hyphen.
- QuietMaster® & TwinTemp®: The serial number is just inside the front panel on a label on the right, front frame. View the demonstration video
- XStar®, QStar® & KStar®: The serial number is just inside the front panel on a label on the left, front frame. View the demonstration video
- KP05 & KP06: The serial number is on a label on the left exterior side of the unit. View the demonstration video
- SP06 & SP08: The serial number is on a label on the right exterior side of the unit. View the demonstration video
- ZQ05 & ZQ07: The serial number is on a label on the left exterior side of the unit. View the demonstration video
- ZQ08 & ZQ10: The serial number is on a label on the right exterior side of the unit. View the demonstration video
- WallMaster®: The serial number is just inside the front panel on a label on the left, front frame.
- Uni-Fit®: The serial number is on a sticker on the front of the base pan on the inside of the unit. The base pan is the shallow pan underneath your air conditioner where the condensate (water) collects. To see the sticker, remove the unit's front cover. The sticker will have a barcode and model and serial numbers. Enter only the first 9 alphanumeric characters, ignoring hyphens or letters following a hyphen.
- Hazardgard®: The serial number is just inside the front panel on a label on the right, front frame.